Change of plans today — there was a lot of rain expected at the Volcanoes National Park so we’re going to try to hit that tomorrow. Instead, we hit up two historical sites north of us that my parents wanted to show me — and I’m so glad they did!
The first was The Lapakahi State Historical Park. a partially restored fishing village along the shoreline over six hundred years old — though I believe it was occupied through the late 1800s. It’s only about a mile walk as you follow the trail through the village, using their brochure and numbered markers on a self-guided tour. Building where canoes were stored, a stone where the fishing god lived and had to be brought a portion of the daily catch, a large residential house, hollowed stones that had salt water poured into them to let the water evaporate in the sun and leave salt crystals behind. It was fascinating.
And absolutely gorgeous. To have a time machine for a day and get a glimpse and what life was like along this beautiful coastline . . . to see all the buildings standing up and imagine kids running across the village and fishermen launching canoes . . . if only.
After a stop for lunch at a surprisingly fancy Italian restaurant, we went to the National Historic Site Puʻukoholā Heiau. The site is home to an important sacred place in Hawai’i, the temple built by the first King of Hawai’i, Kamehameha. He built the temple for his family’s war god after being guided by a prophet that if he built it he would conquer all the islands of Hawai’i. The temple was constructed in 1790-91 by thousands of laborers. They used lava-worn rocks from the ocean and it’s believed they formed a twenty-mile-long human chain to transport the rocks. The temple was consecrated with human sacrifice: another chief on the island who supposedly went willingly to his death.
Here’s how the park ranger told it: Chief Kamehameha invited his first cousin, Chief Keoua Ku’ahu’ula, to the temple opening. Keoua Ku’ahu’ula suspected his purpose (Chiefs made the most worthy sacrifices, especially to a god of war) and decided it was his destiny to be that sacrifice (he had recently lost a third of his army to an erupting volcano, Kīlauea, and took that as a sign that his god was not on his side).
Keoua Ku’ahu’ula approached the coast in his boat, among many others. He first told all his men — his best warriors and closest advisors — that they may join another boat if they wished, knowing their destiny. They all chose to stay with him so he then told them to all lay down their weapons.
It was custom, when chiefs met, for the visiting chief to have a spear thrown at him. He could either dodge the spear or catch it (or get hit and die). Keoua Ku’ahu’ula had a spear thrown at him and he caught it in midair, signaling he was worthy to meet with Kamehameha. However then he did something unexpected, he threw the spear back at Kamehameha which was a sign of violence and war. So Kamehameha’s men quickly rushed the boat and killed Keoua Ku’ahu’ula and his men. Their bodies were then prepared, brought to the newly constructed temple, and offered as sacrifices to the war god.
Some 19 years of war later Kamehameha achieved his goal and united the islands of Hawai’i under one rule for the first time.
The ranger was very knowledgeable and I listened to his talk as I learned about more Hawaiian history (including exactly how the United States illegally took over in the late nineteenth century). We walked around the historic site, aided by an audio tour you can scan from a QR code, and then headed further along the shore past beaches and down a coastal trail.
By the time we headed back home it had turned into a full day indeed and a little sun tired and walking tired (I went for a run this morning before our short hikes today), we’ve had a quiet evening at home.
Tomorrow, we’ll give the Volcanoes National Park another shot.
With Love,
Natalie